✈️ The moment I stopped writing about people—and started writing with them
I sat cross-legged on a cracked concrete floor in a warung in Yogyakarta, ink smudging my notebook as rain drummed the corrugated roof above. My host, Bu Sari, slid a steaming cup of jamu across the table—not the turmeric-ginger blend tourists order at cafes, but her grandmother’s version, bitter and earthy, spiked with fresh galangal and palm sugar. She pointed to my notebook and said, ‘Kamu tulis apa? Bukan tentang kami. Tulis tentang kita.’ (“What are you writing? Not about us. Write about us.”) That sentence—delivered without judgment, only quiet insistence—was the first real crack in my travel-writing practice. It forced me to confront what ‘travel writing think local act local’ actually means: not just observing local life, but embedding your process within it—choosing where to sit, who to ask for feedback, how to credit voices, when to pause the pen and pick up a mortar and pestle. This isn��t a stylistic choice. It’s a structural shift—one that begins long before departure and continues long after the last draft is filed.
🗺️ The setup: Why I booked a solo trip to Central Java (and why I thought I was ready)
I’d spent five years writing travel essays for digital publications—mostly mid-budget destination roundups, cultural primers, and itinerary deep dives. My bylines appeared on sites covering Southeast Asia, but my reporting method hadn’t changed since my first backpacking trip in 2015: arrive, map key sites, interview three to five ‘local experts’ (often NGO staff or English-speaking guides), photograph landmarks, and file copy within 72 hours. I prided myself on accuracy and tone—but never questioned the architecture of access. When an editor asked me to develop a long-form piece on everyday creativity in post-pandemic Indonesian towns, I chose Yogyakarta. Not for its temples or batik studios alone, but because it’s widely cited as a hub of grassroots arts education 1. I booked a 12-day stay in a guesthouse near Malioboro Street, packed two notebooks, a digital recorder, and a list of pre-vetted contacts: a university lecturer, a gallery director, a tourism board liaison. I assumed structure would equal depth.
The first three days followed script. I visited the Sultan’s Palace, interviewed a batik master at his workshop (his English fluent, his studio spotless, his samples priced for export), and attended a gamelan rehearsal at the conservatory. Notes filled pages—but something felt hollow. Descriptions were precise (“red-brown dye pools like congealed blood in ceramic basins”) yet emotionally distant. I kept using phrases like “locals believe…” and “the community values…”—vague collective nouns that erased individual agency. Worse, my recordings sounded rehearsed: polished answers delivered with polite detachment. I wasn’t hearing rhythm; I was capturing echo.
🌧️ The turning point: When the rain washed away my plan
Day four began with a forecast of heavy showers. I ignored it—my schedule demanded a visit to a rural desa (village) 40km east, where a cooperative of women weavers had recently launched a natural-dye initiative. My driver dropped me at the edge of the village as thunder rolled. Within minutes, monsoon rain fell in thick, warm sheets. Roads turned to slick mud. My printed map dissolved into pulp. My phone signal vanished.
I took shelter under the overhang of a small, open-walled structure—a balai desa, or village meeting hall—where six elders sat on low stools, sipping tea. No one spoke English. I fumbled for my phrasebook, then remembered Bu Sari’s warning from our brief exchange the day before: ‘Bahasa itu bukan hanya kata. Itu cara kamu duduk.’ (“Language isn’t just words. It’s how you sit.”) So I sat—not on the plastic chair offered, but on the cool, damp floor beside them, knees drawn up, hands resting palms-up on my thighs. I didn’t open my notebook. I watched their hands: knotted, stained with indigo, moving slowly as they passed around a single thermos. One man tapped the rim of his cup twice—then again, softer—before pouring for the woman beside him. No words. Just rhythm.
When the rain eased, a young woman in a faded kain jarik (traditional wrap skirt) approached. She didn’t introduce herself. She held out a small, rough-hewn wooden spoon and gestured toward a pot simmering over charcoal. I tasted the stew—sweet potato, lemongrass, fermented soybean paste—and she nodded once. Then she pointed to my damp notebook, opened it, and drew a single line across the page with her finger. ‘Ini bukan cerita,’ she said. ‘Ini catatan. Cerita ada di sini.’ She tapped her temple, then her chest. ‘Dan di sini.’
🤝 The discovery: Learning to write *with*, not *about*
That woman was Lina, a 28-year-old former textile teacher who’d returned home after university to revive her grandmother’s dye recipes. She didn’t invite me to observe her work. She invited me to help grind morinda root with a stone mortar—my arms burning after ten minutes, my palms stained rust-red. She corrected my pronunciation of ‘kayu tinggi’ (not ‘high wood’ but ‘tall tree’, referring to the dye plant), then laughed when I misread the Javanese script on her grandmother’s ledger. “You write fast,” she said, “but slow down your eyes.”
Over the next eight days, I abandoned my original itinerary. I stayed with Lina’s family in their compound—sleeping on a bamboo mat in the front room, sharing meals cooked over fire, joining morning prayers at the neighborhood mosque (where I sat quietly, head covered, no recording device visible). I learned that ‘natural dye’ wasn’t a trend—it was crisis response: synthetic dyes had poisoned their river; elders had revived old methods to save both water and memory. I recorded interviews not in sterile settings, but while folding batik cloth, sorting seeds, or walking to the market—conversations punctuated by roosters, passing motorbikes, the scent of clove cigarettes.
Most crucially, I shared drafts. Not polished versions—but raw, translated snippets typed on my phone, read aloud to Lina and her mother. They flagged assumptions: I’d written that ‘women lead the cooperative’—but in reality, leadership rotated monthly, with decisions made collectively during rembug desa (village deliberations). I’d called the dye process ‘ancient’—but Lina insisted it was ‘relearned’, adapted from fragments of oral history and colonial-era Dutch botanical notes they’d unearthed in a local archive. Their corrections weren’t nitpicks. They were epistemological anchors—reminders that knowledge isn’t static, and authority isn’t inherited, but practiced.
🚌 The journey continues: What happened when I tried to publish
Back in Yogyakarta, I submitted the revised piece—titled “Not Ancient, Not New: How One Village Relearns Color”—to my editor. It included Lina’s voice as co-narrator, used Javanese terms without italicization (explaining context instead), and credited the village archive, not just academic sources. The editor loved it—but asked for two changes: remove the co-author line (‘standard policy’), and cut 300 words to fit the slot.
I declined the edit. Instead, I worked with Lina and the cooperative to adapt the text into a bilingual booklet—printed locally, distributed free at the village school and the regional library. We held a reading event in the balai desa, with Lina translating passages into Javanese while children illustrated pages with natural pigments. I paid for the print run from my own funds—not as sponsorship, but as material reciprocity. Later, I helped them digitize their dye recipe ledger (with permission) and uploaded it to a public domain repository hosted by Universitas Gadjah Mada’s ethnobotany department—ensuring attribution remained intact.
This wasn’t ‘ethics’ as abstraction. It was logistics: choosing which platform to publish on, negotiating credit terms before recording began, budgeting for translation and local printing—not just airfare and accommodation. ‘Think local, act local’ meant treating every decision—editorial, financial, technical—as relational, not transactional.
🌅 Reflection: What this taught me about travel—and about myself
I used to think ‘local’ was a place-based adjective: local food, local crafts, local guides. Now I see it as a verb—a continuous action of alignment. To think local means asking, before any notebook opens: Whose knowledge shapes this narrative? Whose labor sustains it? Whose language frames it? To act local means answering those questions with tangible choices—not just respectful phrasing, but shared authorship, equitable compensation, accessible distribution.
It also revealed my own blind spots. My fluency in English and professional credentials had granted me unexamined access—to spaces, stories, and trust. I’d mistaken comprehension for consent. Sitting on that concrete floor, grinding roots until my wrists ached, I understood that humility isn’t passive deference. It’s active recalibration: adjusting your pace, your posture, your priorities to match the tempo of the place—not the deadline.
And it reshaped my definition of ‘useful’ travel writing. The most valuable piece I’ve ever written isn’t the one that got the most clicks. It’s the one that sits on a shelf in a village school library, its spine cracked from use, its margins filled with students’ handwritten notes in Javanese script.
📝 Practical takeaways: How to embed ‘think local, act local’ in your own process
You don’t need to write professionally to apply this. Whether you’re drafting a blog post, compiling a family travel journal, or planning a student project, these principles translate directly:
‘Think local, act local’ isn’t about perfection. It’s about proximity—of attention, intention, and accountability.
Start small. On your next trip, try one of these shifts:
- Swap ‘interview’ for ‘sit with’. Instead of scheduling formal Q&As, spend time alongside someone doing routine work—peeling vegetables, repairing tools, weaving mats. Ask permission to observe, then ask if you may assist—even briefly. Your first question shouldn’t be ‘What’s your story?’ but ‘May I learn how to do this?’
- Build reciprocity into your budget. Allocate funds not just for transport and lodging, but for meaningful exchange: a meal shared, materials purchased directly from makers, a donation to a community fund (not a tip, but a contribution with transparent purpose). In Yogyakarta, I set aside IDR 300,000 (~$20 USD) per week specifically for local-led initiatives—verified by asking neighbors where funds would have most impact.
- Translate your draft—before publishing. If you’re writing in English about non-English speakers, find a trusted bilingual contact (not a hired translator, but someone embedded in the community) to read your final version aloud to affected individuals. Note where meaning slips—or where emphasis feels misplaced. Lina didn’t just correct grammar; she flagged where my tone sounded authoritative rather than collaborative.
- Ask who holds the archive. Before citing ‘traditional knowledge’, identify who curates it: elders’ oral histories? Family manuscripts? Community-led digital repositories? University collections? Credit the custodians—not just the subject. In Central Java, many dye recipes reside in family notebooks passed hand-to-hand; others live in oral chants taught during harvest festivals. Neither belongs in a footnote labeled ‘local source’.
⭐ Conclusion: Travel writing isn’t about capturing truth—it’s about tending relationships
I still carry notebooks. I still record audio. But now, my first entry on any trip isn’t a description of the landscape—it’s a list: Who taught me to sit here? Whose name did I mispronounce today? What did I promise—and did I keep it? ‘Think local, act local’ dismantled my illusion of neutrality. There is no objective lens—only choices about where to focus, whose voice to amplify, and how to distribute the weight of representation.
That rainy afternoon in the balai desa didn’t give me a better story. It gave me a better reason to tell one. And that, more than any byline or accolade, is what makes the work worth continuing.
❓ FAQs: Practical questions from readers
- How do I find local collaborators without speaking the language? Start with physical spaces of daily life—not tourist offices, but markets, neighborhood mosques/churches/temples, public libraries, or vocational schools. Bring a notebook and sketchpad; gesture, share photos of your own community, offer to help with simple tasks. Patience and consistency matter more than fluency.
- What if someone declines to be quoted or photographed? Respect the refusal immediately—no negotiation, no explanation needed. Offer alternative participation: ‘Would you prefer I describe this place without naming you?’ or ‘May I learn this skill without recording?’ Document your own reflection on the boundary instead.
- Is it ethical to pay people for interviews or translations? Yes—if payment reflects local wage norms and is agreed upon transparently. Avoid ‘tip culture’: negotiate fair rates upfront (e.g., ‘two hours of your time equals one day’s wage for a skilled artisan’), and confirm whether payment should go to an individual or a collective fund.
- How much time should I allocate for relationship-building before writing begins? Minimum three full days of non-recording presence—eating, walking, listening, assisting—before any formal documentation starts. In rural Indonesia, locals often assess trustworthiness over shared meals and repeated, unhurried contact.




