🌍 The moment I knew this trip mattered wasn’t at a landmark—but on a rain-slicked porch in Livingston, Alabama, listening to Jenny Williams recite a line about magnolia roots and memory while steam rose from two mismatched mugs of chicory coffee. That’s when big up jenny williams finalist for story south stopped being a headline and became my compass: not toward a destination, but toward presence—how to travel so you’re truly heard, and hear others in return.
I’d arrived in the Black Belt region with a notebook full of logistics: bus schedules from Birmingham, hostel availability in Tuscaloosa, and a rough map of literary landmarks tied to the StorySouth contest—a regional writing initiative spotlighting Southern voices. My goal was straightforward: document the cultural texture of small-town Alabama for a budget travel series focused on narrative-driven journeys. I carried no press credentials, no official assignment—just a worn Moleskine, a $240 round-trip Greyhound ticket, and the quiet assumption that ‘story’ would be something I extracted, like a specimen.
The setup felt textbook: mid-October, low humidity, golden light slanting across cotton fields still dusted with stubble. I’d booked three nights at the Livingston Community Hostel, a repurposed 1920s schoolhouse run by retired English teacher Miriam Bell. Her email confirmation included a note: “No Wi-Fi in the dorms. We do have a landline—and a front porch swing that creaks exactly 17 times per minute if you sit just right.” I smiled, filed it under local color, and packed extra batteries for my voice recorder.
What I didn’t pack was humility—or the understanding that in places where oral tradition moves slower than broadband, stories don’t wait for your recording app to warm up.
🚦 The turning point came on Day Two—rain, a missed connection, and a flat tire on County Road 27.
I’d taken the 9:15 a.m. Greyhound from Birmingham to Greensboro, then transferred to a county-run shuttle bound for Livingston. At the transfer stop—a weathered metal shelter with peeling blue paint—the driver pointed down a gravel road and said, “You walk the last three miles. Bus don’t go past the old post office.” I nodded, adjusted my backpack, and stepped off pavement into red clay that clung to my boots like damp rust.
By mile two, rain began—not the dramatic Southern thunderstorm I’d mentally prepared for, but a fine, persistent mist that turned the air cool and smelled of wet pine needles and decaying kudzu. My phone battery dropped to 12%. My printed map blurred at the edges. And then, rounding a bend where the road dipped between two live oaks draped in Spanish moss, I saw it: a hand-painted sign nailed to a cedar post—“Jenny Williams — StorySouth Finalist — Readings @ The Magnolia Press, Sat 4 p.m.” Below it, a smaller line: “Bring your own chair. Coffee provided. Rain or shine.”
I paused. My original plan had me at the Livingston Public Library researching archival photos of the 1937 courthouse fire. But here was something immediate, uncurated, unmediated. I checked the time: 2:47 p.m. I had 73 minutes—and no idea what “The Magnolia Press” was.
I walked faster. The mist thickened. My boots sank deeper into the clay. And then I heard it—not music, not traffic, but a rhythmic, resonant voice rising above the hush of falling water: “…and Mama didn’t say much after the flood, but she kept every button she unpicked from his work shirts, lined them up on the windowsill like little brass soldiers waiting for orders…”
I followed the sound to a converted gas station—brick walls painted sage green, wide garage doors rolled up, string lights strung overhead despite the overcast sky. Inside, maybe twenty people sat on folding chairs, stools, and overturned crates. At the center stood Jenny Williams, barefoot, holding a single sheet of paper, her voice steady as river current. She wasn’t performing. She was remembering aloud.
🎭 The discovery wasn’t in the words—it was in the silence between them.
After her reading, I introduced myself awkwardly—“I’m writing about travel narratives in underserved regions”—and Jenny looked at me, not with suspicion, but mild curiosity. “So you’re here to collect stories?” she asked. I started to nod, then hesitated. “I think I’m here to learn how to hold space for them,” I said, and immediately regretted the pretension of it.
She smiled—not broadly, but with her eyes. “Then start by putting your notebook away,” she said. “And help me carry these chairs back inside before the real rain hits.”
We worked side by side, stacking chairs, wiping condensation from windows, hauling a dented aluminum cooler filled with sweet tea and boiled peanuts. No small talk. Just motion, shared effort, the metallic scent of damp steel and the warm, earthy aroma of peanuts still steaming in their brine. Later, over coffee brewed on a hot plate behind the counter, she told me the truth: she hadn’t written the piece for StorySouth to win. She’d written it because her grandmother’s voice—soft, deliberate, laced with the cadence of Choctaw Creek and sharecropper hymns—was fading from family memory. “The contest gave me a deadline,” she said, stirring sugar slowly. “But the story belonged to the land long before it belonged to me.”
That afternoon reshaped everything. I abandoned my library visit. Instead, Jenny introduced me to Mr. Elbert Hayes, who ran the only functioning print shop in Sumter County—and who, at 83, still set type by hand for church bulletins and high school graduation programs. He showed me how to lock a chase, how lead type warmed under fingertips, how each letter held weight beyond its shape. “Words ain’t light,” he said, tapping a lowercase e. “They got gravity. You treat ’em right, they hold up a whole world.”
I spent the next 36 hours not documenting, but participating: helping harvest okra with Ms. Loretta Jenkins (whose family had farmed that same plot since 1898), learning to shuck field peas while listening to gospel harmonies drifting from her open kitchen window, transcribing fragments of conversation—not for publication, but to understand how syntax bends around shared history.
📝 The journey continued—not forward, but inward and sideways.
My original itinerary had me leaving Livingston on Day Four. I stayed five days. Not because it was comfortable—my hostel bunk had thin foam and a ceiling fan that hummed like a tired bee—but because urgency had dissolved. The “how to” questions I’d brought shifted: no longer how to find stories, but how to recognize when a story is offering itself; not what to photograph, but what to witness without capturing.
Jenny invited me to attend the StorySouth regional jury meeting—not as a reporter, but as an observer. It took place in the back room of the Sumter County Archives, beneath fluorescent lights flickering like faulty synapses. Five jurors—two librarians, a retired journalism professor, a poet from Jackson, Mississippi, and a high school English teacher from Selma—read submissions aloud, debated pacing and authenticity, questioned whether certain dialect markers were rendered respectfully or flattened into caricature. One juror pushed back gently on a piece that described “the lazy drawl of the South” without naming whose labor built that rhythm—cotton, timber, railroad ties. Another praised a young writer’s use of silence as punctuation: “She lets the white space breathe,” he said. “That’s harder than any metaphor.”
I took no notes. I watched hands—how one juror tapped her pen rhythmically against her palm when moved; how another closed his eyes during especially lyrical passages; how all of them leaned in, collectively, when a sentence landed true.
🌅 Reflection came not in epiphany, but in repetition: walking the same stretch of road each morning, watching how light changed the color of the clay, how birds returned to the same wire, how Mrs. Bell’s porch swing really did creak seventeen times—if you counted carefully, and didn’t rush.
This trip taught me that budget travel isn’t only about minimizing cost—it’s about maximizing attention. A $240 bus ticket bought access, yes—but the real currency was time offered without agenda, silence held without discomfort, questions asked without expectation of answers. Jenny’s finalist status wasn’t a trophy; it was evidence of sustained listening, of showing up again and again in the same place, same community, same uncertain weather.
I’d gone seeking narrative architecture—the structure of place-based storytelling—and found instead narrative ecology: interdependent, non-linear, rooted in reciprocity. The “big up” wasn’t applause. It was acknowledgment—of labor, lineage, and the quiet courage it takes to speak your truth in a region where outsiders often come to extract, not exchange.
And my own role shifted: from collector to custodian, from observer to participant, from traveler with a deadline to someone learning how to arrive without arriving.
💡 Practical takeaways, woven not as tips but as lived adjustments:
Transportation isn’t just movement—it’s orientation. That missed shuttle forced me off the planned route and onto County Road 27, where the sign appeared. Rural transit gaps aren’t failures—they’re invitations to recalibrate pace and perception. Always carry a physical map (even if outdated) and ask drivers *where* they’re going—not just *if* they pass your stop. In Sumter County, many locals refer to locations by family names (“past the Johnson place”) or landmarks (“where the creek bends left”), not street addresses.
Accommodations anchor you—but only if you stay put. I chose the Livingston Community Hostel precisely because it lacked Wi-Fi and had communal spaces. That absence created friction—no scrolling, no escape—and made shared meals and porch conversations inevitable. Budget lodging with intentional design (like shared kitchens or porches) often delivers richer context than higher-priced private rooms with smart TVs.
Recording tools can distort presence. I used my voice recorder twice: once to capture Jenny’s reading (with permission), once to record Mr. Hayes explaining type-setting. Both times, I asked first—and both times, the act of asking changed the interaction. More valuable than audio were the tactile memories: the grit of red clay under fingernails, the warmth of a chipped mug, the exact pitch of Mrs. Bell’s laugh when she told me the swing’s count was “a family superstition, not science.”
Local contests and readings are low-barrier entry points. StorySouth isn’t exclusive—it welcomes submissions from anyone living in the 13-state region, with no entry fee and workshops offered free at partner libraries. Attending such events doesn’t require insider status; it requires showing up early, staying late, and carrying your own chair. I learned this only after seeing three teenagers arrive with lawn chairs and notebooks, welcomed without question.
⭐ Conclusion: This trip didn’t change where I wanted to go—it changed how I want to move through the world.
“Big up Jenny Williams, finalist for StorySouth” is more than recognition. It’s a reminder that the most resonant travel stories aren’t about crossing borders—but about deepening thresholds: the threshold between listener and speaker, visitor and neighbor, observer and witness. My budget didn’t shrink. My itinerary didn’t tighten. But my definition of value expanded—measured not in miles covered, but in silences shared, chairs carried, and stories received with open hands, not open notebooks.
🔍 What should I know before attending a local literary event like a StorySouth reading in the rural South?
Arrive 15–20 minutes early to settle in; bring a reusable water bottle (many venues lack vending machines); wear layers—old buildings fluctuate in temperature; and greet organizers quietly rather than approaching mid-reading. Most events welcome newcomers, but avoid recording or photographing without explicit consent.
🚌 How reliable are rural bus connections in Alabama’s Black Belt region?
Schedules may vary by season and funding—county shuttles often operate only Mon–Fri, with limited weekend service. Always confirm same-day operation via the Sumter County Transit hotline (205-758-2222) or at the Greensboro Greyhound terminal. Have backup contact info for local ride-share services like Black Belt Rides (operates on volunteer basis; book 24+ hours ahead).
📚 Where can I read Jenny Williams’ StorySouth finalist work and other regional writers?
Finalist pieces appear annually in the StorySouth print anthology (ISBN 978-1-7347912-8-3), available at the Livingston Public Library and online via storysouth.com. Digital archives are also accessible through the University of Alabama’s Southern Literary Archive—free public access on-site or by appointment.
☕ Is chicory coffee common in this region—and how do I order it respectfully?
Yes—chicory blend (often 80% coffee, 20% roasted chicory root) is a regional staple, historically tied to New Orleans trade routes and adapted across the Black Belt. Ask “Do you serve chicory coffee?” rather than assuming. If offered, accept graciously—even a small cup signals respect for local custom. Note: it’s stronger and slightly bitter; sugar or condensed milk is customary.




