Key Takeaways
- Saudi Arabia is a mystery to most travelers. It’s not easy to visit as a tourist as tourist visas are rarely approved, non-Muslims can’t visit the hol
- My friends who have lived there have told me that’s a weird life: you stay mostly in the work compounds, you can’t really travel many places, and it’s
- So when Ceil wrote to me that she was a Jamaican woman teaching English in Saudi Arabia (also referred to below as “the Kingdom”), I was instantly cur
Saudi Arabia remains largely inaccessible to casual travelers. Tourist visas are seldom issued, non-Muslims are prohibited from entering Mecca and Medina, and most foreign workers reside in gated compounds — making daily life quite distinct from typical expat experiences elsewhere.
When Ceil Tulloch — a Jamaican educator and longtime ESL instructor — shared her experience teaching in Saudi Arabia (often referred to locally as “the Kingdom”), we were eager to learn more. What’s it really like living and working there? Is the financial reward worth the cultural adjustment? Ceil offers candid insights.
Route for Less: Tell us about yourself.
Ceil: My name is Ceil Tulloch, and I’m 44 years old. Born in Kingston, Jamaica, and raised in New York City, I’ve taught English as a second or foreign language abroad for over a decade — first across Asia and later in the Middle East.
I’m currently employed at a university in northwestern Saudi Arabia and have spent two years total in the country. As a global traveler who’s visited 41 countries, I also maintain a travel blog and authored the nonfiction book Remembering Peter Tosh (2013).
What is life like as a foreigner in the country?
First, it’s deeply conservative and traditional. This is the first place I’ve lived where gender segregation is strictly enforced in public spaces — from separate entrances at malls and universities to restrictions on interacting with unrelated men. Adjusting took time, especially coming from a background where freedom of movement and mixed-gender socializing were routine.
Second, it’s quiet and insular. With no cinemas, nightclubs, bars, amusement parks, or public swimming pools, social life centers almost entirely within residential compounds. Unless someone hosts a gathering or extends an invitation, days can feel very still and self-contained.
Third, it’s surprisingly diverse. Expats make up roughly 20% of the population, meaning you’ll regularly interact with professionals from dozens of nationalities — offering rich cross-cultural exchange right where you live and work.
How did you end up teaching there?
It happened organically. Though my undergraduate degree is in English literature and my master’s in education, I never planned to become a teacher. While working in administration in Manhattan, I saw an ad for TESOL certification and reached out to the program director. His passion for teaching abroad inspired me to enroll.
The training was excellent — and after completing it, I moved to South Korea to teach for two years. I enjoyed it so much that I stayed for seven. Later, an opportunity arose to teach in Saudi Arabia — and driven by curiosity about the Middle East — I accepted. After two years in Oman, I returned to Saudi Arabia for what will be my final contract.
What kind of work do you do in the Kingdom?
In the Middle East, I’ve taught at the university level in the Preparatory Year Program (PYP). This intensive English-language track prepares Saudi students for undergraduate study — focusing on reading, writing, listening, and speaking skills needed to succeed academically in English.
Is it easy to find work as a teacher in Saudi Arabia? What is the process like?
Turnover remains relatively high, so teaching positions open frequently — particularly for male candidates. For native English speakers, a bachelor’s degree is the minimum requirement; preferred fields include English, TESOL, or applied linguistics.
Applicants typically need two professional references. Teaching licenses are mandatory for roles in international or secondary schools. University-level positions usually require a master’s degree (or higher) in a relevant field, plus formal certification such as CELTA or TESL with at least 100 hours of training. Prior regional experience strengthens applications, and the maximum age for employment is 60. Online degrees are not accepted.
Upon arrival, your employer will help process your residency permit (iqama), requiring notarized and authenticated academic credentials, passport copies, and passport-sized photos. Processing can take anywhere from two to several months. Once issued, the iqama allows access to essential services — banking, telecom, postal services, and more.
Due to recent economic shifts — including lower oil revenues — securing top-tier teaching roles has grown more competitive. In previous years, candidates could choose among multiple offers with generous packages. This time, Ceil received only one offer — with less favorable terms than four years ago. Colleagues at other institutions report similar trends: fewer openings, reduced benefits, and tighter hiring criteria.
